It has a lot of information but it is well laid out so the book is easy to get around. The pictures are very helpful with some of the information, making it easier to understand. Good introduction to fly fishing. I recommend this book if you are new or old to the sport. Feb 06, Shanna Perkins rated it it was amazing. Great tips I've been fly fishing two years and learned more from this book by those who've been teaching me.
Great resource for any level. A very nice introduction to fly fishing. Sep 24, Jerry Basford rated it it was amazing. A lot of information This book is full of fishing techniques for a variety of fish from stream fishing trout to lake fishing bass to salt water fishing. There is so much good information I initially purchased an e-book but I have just purchased a hard copy so I can take it with me on fishing trips and try a few techniques throughout the year.
Jul 04, Greg Monigold rated it it was ok. Not bad, but there are many better Not bad tips, some repetitive, all could be better organized. Illustrations very good. If they decided to make a tying book of the essential flies selections it would be worth buying. Everett Painter rated it liked it Apr 27, William Bailey rated it really liked it Jan 02, Cliff rated it it was amazing Oct 23, Michael S. Sofka rated it really liked it Feb 03, Finn rated it really liked it Apr 07, Sid Baker rated it it was amazing Nov 19, Kris Chambers rated it it was amazing Dec 13, Nick rated it really liked it Jul 12, Issac Ramos rated it it was amazing Jul 22, Chase Eberly rated it it was amazing Aug 26, Ben Scarrott rated it liked it Sep 25, Frank Johnson rated it really liked it Mar 26, Calvin Stoltzfus rated it it was amazing Dec 21, Christopher Miller rated it really liked it Dec 18, Shannon S rated it really liked it Jan 22, We have some of the best fly fishing books by top authors now in high quality pdf ebook format.
Below are the free ebook downloads. And Get More Visitors! A beautiful fish lived in the ocean. His scales are blue, green, purple and shiny silver. His name is Rainbow Fish. The other fish ask Rainbow Fish to play Rainbow Fish swam away. Share to Twitter. Share to Facebook. Stand comfortably with the rod behind you. Try to keep your head relatively still through the cast, looking up at about 45 degrees. Keep looking up and aim to really compress bend the rod. As the rod reaches an angle of about 45 degrees in front, its compression will rapidly unwind.
Practice your technique regularly because this relatively simple technique has a multitude of uses. The roll cast is the perfect answer to these problems, and is primarily used to straighten the line sharply before making an overhead cast see pp. The roll cast is also ideal for casting in enclosed situations because very little line passes behind the angler during its execution. Finally, a roll cast can be used as a safety technique to pull sinking lines to the surface prior to re-casting, which reduces the water tension placed on the line.
The grip Place your thumb on top of the cork handle and imagine that you are gently holding a screwdriver to achieve a comfortable, well-balanced grip. Ensure that your grip is relaxed at all times. This action will gradually peel the line from the water so that it slides across the surface in readiness for the back-cast.
Check that your thumb is almost upright and located in your peripheral vision. Make sure that a short section of line remains in the water, prior to starting the forward cast. Watch the line creating a narrow sausage shape as it extends, known as a casting loop. Once unloaded, the line achieves distances unobtainable with a roll cast.
It involves an extension of line behind the angler, so it is unsuitable for enclosed environments. Keep your grip on the rod relaxed and your arm relaxed and tucked into your side.
Imagine the clock face once again. This will gradually peel the line from the water and create a bend in the rod, in readiness for the back-cast. Ensure that the rod remains motionless once the movement has been completed, to allow a loop to form.
Ensure that the upper part of the loop passes close to the lower part, as this will create a tight, wind-resistant loop. Look straight ahead. A well-executed double-haul will attain optimum line speeds and help achieve a tight, aerodynamic loop. The double-haul is also highly effective in windy conditions. As the rod accelerates backward, make a short, smooth pull downward with your line-control hand. Assume the low rod position and relaxed grip that is used for roll and overhead casting.
Your two hands should be 4—12in 10—30cm apart. Begin the back-cast, ensuring that you do not release your grip on the line with your line-control hand until required in the forward-cast phase of the sequence. Allow the line-control hand to begin moving toward its original starting position as the line extends fully into the back-cast. High-speed double-haul Incorporating a double-haul into an overhead cast will cause the line to blur at high speed toward its target.
This is a particularly useful technique for fly-fishing on tropical saltwater flats. Pause, allowing the line to extend behind you while your line-control hand returns to its original starting position, ready for the next stage. Perhaps the most elegant of all casting techniques, Spey casts are often carried out with a double-handed rod, and can be used in many situations to target species such as salmon, sea trout, or steelhead. When to use spey casts Spey casts are roll casts see pp.
In this situation, it would be impossible to make a standard roll cast without the line becoming tangled. Strip in the remaining line and trap this against the butt of the rod, using your lower hand if you are using a double-handed rod. You are now ready to begin the cast. The cast demonstrated here is known as the single Spey cast, and should be used when the wind is blowing upstream. As the line moves across your body, smoothly accelerate and begin lifting the rod into the back-cast.
Aim the rod high. This results in a sausage-shaped loop and the line then skips off over the water. Do not force the tip toward the water or the cast will collapse. This is not an exact science—your instinct will always be important. A rapid strike The fish has taken the fly so fast that there is still loose line to clear as the angler strikes and sets the hook. Keep clear of loose line as the fish runs. Playing a fish Keeping the line tight The rod is not working against the fish unless there is bend in it, and the more strain you can put on the fish, the sooner it will tire.
Then scoop up the fish and gently bring it ashore. Some species, such as trevally, have a sharp ridge on the tail wrist, so be sure to wear protective gloves to tail them. Landing with two For big, heavy fish, you need an extra pair of hands to net your catch. The angler can use two hands for the rod, while a companion wades in with the net. Check if local regulations permit catch-and-release. Unhooking a fish Unhooking safely Removing a hook is often easier with one person to hold the fish and one to remove the hook.
A tool that holds the fish firmly, but safely, by the chin can help. Stay close to water Most people value a photograph of their hard-won catch. Remove the fish from the water for as short a time as possible. Hold the fish close to the water for the photograph, cradling it gently to support its weight while it is out of the water.
Watch as it swims away, in case you need to grab it and help it for a while longer. Fish caught in deep water and affected by pressure change, such as pollack and cod, should be humanely dispatched as quickly as possible.
These species are badly affected by rapid changes in depth, and their swim bladders distend so much that they are unable to swim back down. Using a Boga-Grip Holding into the current In a river you can help your fish revive by holding it so that the running water flows over its gills.
This fish is in perfect condition and has fully recovered. KEY Shallow water Deep water Moving water This stretch of river is a perfect fish habitat, with a good flow, and plenty of cover. It is also a sensible location, with sufficient space, to make a cast.
Lakes may be irrigated by feeder streams that are cooler than the stillwater; this oxygenrich water should always be investigated. Rocky areas offer a complete food chain in a concentrated area. Some species inhabit the rocky terrain; others turn up when conditions suit their feeding habits. Reef Shallow, rough ground causes water turbulence Cross-section of a rocky coast Rocky coastlines produce great fishing for anglers who are prepared to walk and explore.
Boat-anglers often fish over reefs and rocks out at sea. Rocky coast A jagged and seemingly inaccessible coastline can be a highly inviting area to fish. There are often many different places you could fish within a comparatively small area.
Cod, for example, come inshore after a storm, to mop up the food that turbulent seas have dislodged from the bottom. By looking at the ways the waves break, and where the currents run, you can tell what lies beneath the surface. The movement of the sea provides clues to the underwater features that hold fish.
Reading beaches A beach offers plenty of fishholding features. Understanding what species are likely to be around them is an essential part of beach-fishing. A short, choppy sea may disturb the bottom, providing food for larger fish, while many species like to move in the gullies and holes, even those close to the shoreline. Beyond, there is often a deepwater dropoff. Color changes on the flats The color of the water reveals the depth and nature of the sea bed.
The bluer water is deeper. Using can be further applied. Starting with baits and lures is a logical way of approaching many types of water and many species. Using the strategies in this chapter, you will be able to put your new skills into practice.
The weight that takes the bait down also ensures that it stays in place. However, the tips are sensitive so you can tell when you have a bite. These are designed to work with different weights and in a variety of conditions. Swimfeeder acts as weight Freshwater rig Most rigs are a variation on a basic bottom-fishing setup, with the mainline running through the weight or swimfeeder. Small spinning reel Use this type of reel with either a rear or front drag, set to use light mainlines.
Relatively big fish can be caught on a light line. Do Mix your groundbait with the lake water in a bucket to create a sticky consistency that begins to break down when it enters the water. Test this by throwing in samples beside you. Various groundbait mixes can be purchased and are designed to appeal to different species; it is always worth including a little of your hookbait in with your mixture as well.
Use a catapult to introduce some hookbait into the same areas as your groundbait. With practice, you will become very accurate at this. Remember to feed little and often. Your baited hook will lie on the bottom in an irresistible cloud of groundbait from the swimfeeder. Holding the line Before casting, open the bale arm, slip your index finger over the line so it is tight to the spool, take the rod back for the cast, and release the line from your finger as the rod comes around.
This is when you need to have something special to give you an edge. Make an accurate and controlled overhead cast see pp. Get comfortable before casting and remember to look up into the sky to the point where you will release the line.
Cast lower when the wind is in your face, and cast sideways to reach under overhanging trees. Before striking, tighten the reel back up, or use a baitrunner system, which automatically snaps the reel back into your preset drag mode. This is known as cocking the float. Centerpin reel The classic centerpin reel above is popular with many anglers, but a small spinning reel will work just as well, and is easier to use.
Preparing to fish the lake margins Look around the lake for spots where this simple method is likely to work. Fish love some kind of cover, so concentrate on overhanging trees, overgrown banks, and reed beds.
Mix groundbait to attract your target, including some Catapult or throw some groundbait out in a fairly tight area hookbaits. Canned corn the hookbait , hempseed, and pellets make up this mixture. Braking the reel A centerpin reel requires manual braking, to prevent a tangle. Use either your thumb or one of your forefingers to stop the reel. There is no need for a large movement—instead, sweep the rod back until the line goes tight and the tip of the rod bends over.
Unhook your catch carefully, and then gently slip it back into the water. Make sure to check any local rules to do with the use of keepnets. Rig setup Big-pit reel Large spinning reels for carp fishing known as big-pit reels come with highcapacity, wide spools that make it easier for you to load the line evenly.
The more smoothly line comes off the reel during a cast, the farther the baited rig will fly. The weighted line sits on the bottom. Weighted line Bait Hair rig The bait is attached to the hook on a fine line. The fish sucks up the bait without feeling the hook. It is common to set up at least three rods, to enable you to cover as much water as possible. Carp prefer to feed near some form of cover, so look to place your baits near islands, reed beds, visible sand bars, sunken trees, and drop-offs.
Throw or catapult groundbait into your chosen swim, to encourage the carp to come into the area. Cast your rig into this area, and carp may pick it up while feeding. Keep an eye out for carp rolling on the surface, reeds moving around because carp are knocking them, and water visibly stirred up by carp feeding in the shallows. Secure extra groundbait to your rig, in a PVA net bag, held in place by foam, before casting. The bag dissolves quickly, to leave your baited rig surrounded by tempting morsels.
Carp rods have a forgiving through action that enables smooth long-range casting. Stopping the reel Fixed-spool reels require the angler to use a forefinger to secure the line during the cast. Release the line at the end of the cast.
Place each rod on a rod rest and into an electronic bite alarm. Watch patiently for a bite. Fishing for big carp is all about putting in the time.
Rod and rig setup A standard ft 3. Surface rig A float such as a carp controller will enable you to cast to the fish. If they are close, you may be able to freeline bait. Dawn and dusk are good times of day to spot them. Wear polarized sunglasses to cut glare and enable you to see into the water. Spinning reel A large-capacity spinning reel copes well with stalking. It is worth carrying a smaller, lighter reel if you do a lot of mobile sight-fishing. If the carp come up for the groundbait, use it for hookbait too.
Lightweight chest waders are useful. Step carefully and do not go out too deep. Keep as still as possible when carp are feeding very close to you. It can get exciting, but you must be stealthy. Fish are naturally wary of foreign objects in the water and on the bank, and their eyesight is very acute, so once in position, make sure you make as little disturbance as possible when moving. Carry some bait with you so that there is no need to leave the water to rebait the hook.
Land your carp with a large, soft-mesh landing net, and unhook and weigh it on a wetted carp mat or in a sling that will not damage the natural protective slime. Rod and rig setup Pike-fishing rig Use braid line and a wire biting trace. Many fishing waters demand the use of barbless hooks. Subsurface lure Pike respond to lures at all depths and in various designs, from a wobbling type of shallow diver to a heavy jerkbait. Carry a selection of lures to cover a range of depths, from tight to the bottom to on the surface.
There is a good chance that your lure will pass close to the pike many times before they decide to hit it, so work the water systematically.
A big landing net is essential, as is a glove for protecting your hands when unhooking. When casting from your boat, adopt a steady stance because movement is always exaggerated when a boat is rocking slightly.
Anchoring will allow you to place the boat to give maximum lure coverage, but if the wind is light, consider slowly drifting through the area. Takes can be savage. The pike often engulfs the lure before you register that you need to strike. Hold the pike by the bony part of the lower gill area and unhook using long-nosed pliers or a special unhooking implement.
Largemouth bass rig Use a simple float setup for fishing with livebaits. Lures can also be used for bass fishing. Braid mainlines are increasingly popular because they give direct, accurate fishing. Small baitcaster The demands of bass fishing have led to developments in small baitcasting multiplier reels, such as electronic braking systems. High-speed boat fishing Like many other species, largemouth bass thrive around areas of cover and shelter. Because their feeding habits vary according to atmospheric pressure and water temperature, boats are used to provide access to the ever-changing bass-holding areas.
The more good ground you cover with a lure, the greater your chances of hooking up; the closer you cast livebait to a likely spot, the more likely a bass is to come out and hit it. All manner of hard plastic lures work well, including shallow-diving ones. It is vital to turn the bass away from potential danger as quickly as possible, and then play it out in the clear water closer to the boat.
The person with the net then scoops it up. Keep its time out of the water to an absolute minimum. Light rig Cock the float with small weights, and set the hook at an appropriate depth. Most poles have several sections that slide into each other to create the length required.
Have a soft-mesh keepnet close by. Pole-fishing kit A tackle-box seat with legs, which can be set up in shallow water and has easily accessible bait and tackle compartments, is ideal. Have one hand on the butt of the pole behind you and the other on the underside of the pole in front of you, positioned to balance the rod.
Store spare sections behind you, and bring them forward to join them onto the pole in front of you. Do this by pushing down with the hand on the butt section of the pole, which lifts the tip of the pole. It is vital not to overcrowd your keepnet. Freeline rig For freelining, just tie a hook on your line. For light bottom-fishing, add a small weight. Freelining on lakes and rivers On a river, use the current to work freelined baits gently downstream.
Alternatively, squeeze the bread around the hook to remove all the air, and it will sink naturally. High-protein baits also work well. Spinning reel A small spinning reel holds plenty of line for these styles of fishing, but use one with a good frontor rear-drag system, since big fish require careful playing on light lines.
Look at where you want to place your bait, and cast gently and precisely. Apply extra drag to the reel by palming the front of the spool. Keep stress to a minimum. Keep it close to or in the water, or on a wetted carp mat, while you take the hook out. As strength kicks through its body, allow it to swim off through your hands. This is a skill that takes time to master, but it will also teach you plenty about rivers. Rod and rig setup River trotting requires only very light tackle.
A long rod of, for example, 15 ft 4. While a centerpin reel with its direct drive is popular among traditionalists, a small spinning reel will also do the job well. Float rig A simple float rig is all that is needed, but the kind of float and the number of weights used are important. Find out what works best for you. Centerpin reel A centerpin reel allows the line to come directly off the large spool.
This makes it easier to control the movement of the float in the current. River trotting has not been notably affected by new developments in tackle and techniques, and this is what gives it such timeless appeal to so many anglers.
Then add bait to your hook. With practice you will be able to flick it to bring in line or let it out. Cast out into the river. With a centerpin reel, be sure to take the correct amount of line off the reel beforehand. There is no need for distance casting. Precision placement and a gentle landing for your rig are far more important. Mainlines should be at least 30lb Catfish rig Use livebait with a large saltwater hook or a special catfish pattern. Tie the baited rig to a float, which is previously secured by a weight on the riverbed.
Large reels Use a big spinning reel or conventional reel to hold a lot of heavy line. A strong drag and comfortable handle are essential.
How to fish for catfish Targeting these monsters is a waiting game. As close to the water as possible is often the best place. Be careful when casting to avoid injury to others on the pier. Basic float rig A baited hook suspended under a float allows you to target fish that are not feeding on the bottom. In parts of Australia, anglers target stingrays and sharks from the piers. Spinning reel A spinning reel offers tangle-free casting and is perfect for float-fishing. Choose your baits and equipment to suit the waters and the likely targets.
With practice this becomes an easy operation, especially if you have help available. Most long-range rods are at least 13ft 3. Modern materials make such rods light and responsive, Clipped-down rig In a clipped-down, fixed paternoster rig, the hook is secured by the bait clip, and releases on impact with the water. Bait clip Grip lead but the most powerful are very stiff through the butt and midsections.
Many sea anglers also use ft 4. The longer and more forgiving the rod, the easier it is to put a proper bend into the rod, and gain maximum compression that sends the bait out farther. Reel and line A modern size conventional reel is perfect for long-range beach-fishing.
However, many anglers use big spinning reels, which are generally easier to use. Whichever reel you use should be loaded with lb 6. Many anglers now hone their technique in long-distance casting tournaments.
Always think about safety when distance casting, because the power buildup is immense, and this means that the lead and rig are moving at high speed, which is potentially dangerous to those nearby. Use a strong shockleader to take the strain during the cast; without it, the weaker mainline will snap. Fresh bait is key. Check your baits at least every 20 minutes if you have had no bites.
Look into the sky during the power stroke, and release the line when the rod is at an angle of about 45 degrees to the ground; the lead should then head in that direction.
Gripping the spool Clamp your thumb tightly onto the spool to hold it as you cast. Beware of striking too soon. Be aware also of the need to strike quickly if the rod tip bends suddenly. CASTING TIPS The most important aspect of long-distance beachcasting is adding increased compression or bend to the rod during the entire length of the cast, in order to achieve greater casting distances.
Look at where you want the bait, weight, or lure to go, and release in line with this point. This should be matched with a spinning reel, and the line should be either 8-lb 3. Squeeze the bread around the hook so that some air is trapped to help it float. You can often see where mullet have been feeding by the telltale Spinning reel A small- to medium-size spinning reel allows effective casting and works well with the light weights and small baits that are used for mullet fishing in estuaries.
Mullet can sometimes be induced into feeding and taking the hookbait by these free offerings. Bread is also a good hookbait. You may need to add to this to keep them interested.
Take a moment to savor your success before releasing your catch. When a mullet bites, be prepared for a powerful run, often toward snags underwater obstructions. There are plenty of species that thrive in the rough or broken ground on this type of coast, such as ballan wrasse, pollack, and conger eel, which are found off North Atlantic coasts.
Heavy lines are usually needed to withstand wear and tear, but in these conditions some tackle will inevitably be lost. Fixed paternoster rig A three-way swivel can be used to join line, weight, and hook.
It is vital to keep moving around so that you can drop your baits in different places. Choose a safe position, where you can stand close to the rock edge, in order to drop your bait directly down.
Hold the rod constantly and keep a close eye on the sea at all times, especially during heavy surf conditions. Cutting your losses The use of an elastic band to secure the lead means that only the weight, rather than the whole rig, will be lost if it snags.
A colorful ballan wrasse is successfully lifted from the sea. There is no need for a landing net in these situations. Note the weak link to the lead see opposite for use over rocky ground where snags are likely.
Look for deep water close to shore with plenty of rocks and weeds. It is important to choose the time of day carefully and to know the tide times in the area; the pollack prefer to hunt when a tide is running. The biggest specimens tend to be caught by spinning as close to the bottom as possible. This species usually dives suddenly when hooked. Different colors will work on different days. Here a jellyworm lure is rigged on a simple runningledger rig for spinning close to the bottom.
Rod and rig setup There are many to ft 3. Match your rod with either a small conventional or a medium spinning reel. You will need a lb 6. Bottom-fishing rig A standard bottomfishing rig that fishes on the bottom is the usual setup for this type of shore-fishing. Reading the conditions Many people look at a surf beach and see nothing but waves.
However, the trained eye can see various patterns in the surf that show clearly the kind of terrain that lies beneath. An important element of your kit is a good pair of lightweight, breathable chest waders. Conventional reel This small conventional reel, designed to hold ft m of lb 6. Avoid striking on a slackline bite—that is, when the bass picks up the bait and runs toward you. Load your reel with to lb 4. Chest waders are useful for reaching the best spots, but in summer many anglers wear no waterproofs wet-wade.
Lure-fishing rig Join a short length of lb This means that you can change lures by simply clipping and unclipping. Clip link Maria Chase lure This lure goes no deeper than 12in 30cm when retrieved. Choosing your location Bass need cover to ambush their prey and will use rocks, seaweed, and gullies to trap hapless victims; try to cast lures in these locations.
Take a look at a section of coastline at low tide and see what the outgoing sea has uncovered. Note gullies and weed patches, and look for big rocks, around which the bass will hunt. Be sure to keep a close eye on the tide and have a safe retreat through shallow water planned.
When hooked, a bass will head for the nearest snag. Return the bass to the sea, if possible. Always wind braid line on under tension. Rod and rig setup A short, powerful spinning or casting rod of 8 ft 2.
Combine it with a spinning or conventional reel. However, it is important to adjust the drag or clutch on your reel to compensate for their lack of stretch. Spinning reel A spinning reel is ideal for drifting baits under a float.
You can use the secondary drag system to pay out your line and then simply turn the handle to engage the reel ready for the strike. However, many anglers prefer to open the bale arm to feed out the line. It is also exciting to ease boats close to the structure and cast into the best-looking spots.
Take up a stable and comfortable casting position and cover as much water as possible. To maneuver close to a structure, you must be very capable of handling a boat in this kind of situation, or have an extremely knowledgeable skipper. Never take a boat anywhere near a rocky shore if you lack experience. Many of the biggest stripers are caught at night from quiet rock marks, often in rough conditions.
Striped bass caught on the fly When fly-fishing for stripers, use a line tray for stripping line into, so that the movement of the sea does not take your spare line away from you. Rod and rig set-up Spinning rods, 9—10ft 2. Braided lines are often preferred to mono for their direct feel. Lure-fishing rig Use small spoons and spinners on a simple setup.
Many anglers like to use light lures in the shallows. But larger sea trout are often in deeper water, so a heavier lure will enable you to cast farther out. Baitcasting reel A baitcasting multiplier above is ideal for heavier lures, but a spinning reel is a better choice in situations where very light lures are needed. Seek shelter from onshore winds, which make casting trickier. Natural food Start fishing in areas where shrimp and various small baitfish are likely to be, such as near rocks and weed, as they are the reasons sea trout come inshore to feed.
Many lures and flies successfully imitate shrimp and prawns. Cover as much water as you can with your casts and vary the rate of your retrieves.
If the sea trout ignore your lure, try letting it sink for a moment. It is advisable to carry a small, portable landing net that can be clipped out of the way on your back until you need it. Sea trout caught in the ocean are usually brightly colored, with vivid markings.
They begin to darken when they have spent time in a river. Glasses also protect your eyes. They must be stowed carefully to avoid damage as you move around the boat. Bottom-fishing rig A typical bottomfishing rig used for this type of fishing. Use a wire trace for fish with sharp teeth. Round baitcasting reel When filled with braid, a round baitcasting reel is a good all-around boat reel.
Surprisingly large fish can be landed on this type of baitcasting reel. Warm-climate small-boat fishing In warm waters there are plenty of species that feed either close to or right at the surface.
The faster you can get close to such an area, the greater your chances of success. Do not rely on cell phones for your safety. If you are thinking of buying a boat, for your own safety, be sure to attend an appropriate course. This helps stabilize the rod and is a perfect position for a quick strike.
It takes time to learn how much pressure can be applied. Cold-climate small-boat fishing Many species in cold waters like to feed closer to the bottom, if not actually on it. While fog can be worrying when out at sea, your GPS and radar will help you get home safely. When traveling in fog, always show appropriate lights. It is vital to make sure somebody on board keeps watch for other vessels at all times. Be sure to give a wide berth to those that show up on your radar.
Dressed for cold seas A flotation suit has a built-in closedcell foam lining that will help you float if you fall in, and it keeps you warm, which will help you to fish more effectively. However, a flotation suit is not a substitute for a lifejacket. This allows you to unhook safely without coming in contact with sharp teeth. Some such tools have built-in weighing scales. A minimum rod length of 14ft 4m is usual, but these rods are surprisingly light and easy to handle.
Long rods are matched with strong conventional reels that hold at least yd m of to lb Big sharks run a long way when hooked and on occasion you may need all that line. Bottom-fishing rig A bottom-fishing rig works well for casting and fishing with big shark baits. Rigs need to be as tough and as simple as possible. Large conventional reel Look for a smooth drag system, and a comfortable handle, to cope with a long, hard fight. They can home in on these baits from a long distance.
Compress the rod to harness the power that is necessary to cast big baits into the crashing waves.
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